(Building Plans Only), Stove, Heater, Grill, Stowable, Multi Fuel in Newcastle, Staffordshire for sale

This Sale Is For The Building Plans and Operating Instructions Only. Plans, operating instructions, both written and photos, will be emailed to the buyer. The plans and building instructions package includes the following: - Simple building instructions. - Technical drawings. - Assembly and operating instructions written and photo illustrated, along with an instructional you tube link (unlisted) - Detailed explanations, on the design, how it works, how to avoid known pitfalls operating the stove and some other useful information. Having looked on the market for years for a stove like this without success, I have done the next best thing. I have designed and built a stove from stainless steel that will run on many types of oil, mineral oils such as used engine oil, dirty oil with high moisture content, diesel, kerosene / paraffin and vegetable based oils. As the burn is very efficient, there is very little smoke when the stove is operated within the normal temperature range. I have concentrated on reducing visible emissions. Yes, you will get a little smoke burning dirty unfiltered sump oil, but within a manageable level. The oil does not need filtration as "settling for a period of time", should suffice. The impurities will sink or swim. The stove can be converted to run on solid fuels, e.g., wood, coal, charcoal, briquettes and will burn wet green wood and bamboo with the same relative efficiency. It only takes minutes to convert from liquid to solid fuel or vice versa. Even household rubbish can be used as fuel, giving the stove a double role as an incinerator, such is the efficacy of the burn. Basically, the stove will run on anything that burns, provide it is hot and kept hot. It is easily lit from cold, even with wet kindling wood, with the use of a small amount of propellant such as diesel or kerosene to bring the stove to operating temperature. My Favorited is a piece of paper kitchen towel, with the fuel you intend to use, added to it. Much better and cheaper than a fire lighter. This stove would be highly beneficial for use throughout developing countries, disaster areas and for emergency situations such as a standby heater and cooker (Power outages), survival, campers, greenhouse heater, forge, Chimera, fire pit, workshop, boat, caravan heater, tent cooker and heater, grill/BBQ. In fact, anywhere, where too much lingering smoke is undesirable, which is everywhere. With this new approach to the design of a "stove". I went back to basics, and the thinking was "outside the box". There is nothing really to go wrong. This stove gives a greater temperature range than conventional stoves. The temperature can be arrived at where the stove glows red, using dry solid fuel or any type of oil, with visible flame and a bit more smoke exiting the top of a 2 meter flue. From a standing cold start, firelighter lit, using dry kindling and wood, the stove can reach a temperature of 700+ deg f / 400 deg c, within 15 mins. Should you wish this to be. The basic operating principal* of the stove, is known to have existed for at least, 2000 years. (BTW, this Stove is not based on the "rocket stove" which is a great piece of kit) What I have done is adapt an old principal to burn oil with increased efficiency, therefore with minimum visible emissions. There are no "moving parts", no nuts or bolts in the construction, it is secured with a lever system. The stove is collapsible for easy transport and storage. When fully assembled the combustion chamber is "enclosed", which is an added safety feature. It is held together by the most powerful and reliable force on this earth. GRAVITY *How it works: To sustain fire, you need: - Fuel. - Heat - Air. Remove any 1 of the 3 above, the fire will extinguish. Ask a fireman. Now let's reverse this. If 1 of the 3 above is increased, the fire will burn hotter. Agreed? To increase heat we put more fuel on the fire, or more fuel in the engine. Some stoves, burners and forges, for example have increased air pumped in, to increase efficiency, with bellows or pumps etc., What this stove does, is heat the air to a super heated level (when at normal operating temperature and above) that is introduced to the burner can at the bottom, using the stove's generated heat. (There is great capacity to heat air in this way.) So for a given amount of fuel, it would make sense, increasing the heat entering the combustion chamber, will give a hotter therefore a more efficient burn, would it not? Man appears not to have done a lot with this principal since. I think it's time we did. Take any conventional stove you see, there is one common denominator. The air introduced into the combustion chamber is COLD. A basic inefficiency, right there. I have applied K.I.S. Kept It Simple, in design, assembly and operation. In fact it is so simple I cannot work out why I hadn't thought of this years ago. I only wished I had. I have been testing the stove extensively during the past 6 years, both in the field and at home, developing and modifying the oil burner. I have lodged patent applications for this oil fuel burning stove in New Zealand and the United Kingdom. NZ Patent Granted. No. 616002 UK Patent Pending. No. 1319724.9 It is tried and well tested, so you would not part of the test program, Don't under estimate the capability for high heat output of this stove. Cooking can be carried out on top of the assembled stove, or on the open flame when it is used in the Grill / BBQ application. BBQ fuel will need to be dry and typical BBQ fuel. I wouldn't recommend attempting to grill using the heat and fumes from burning used engine oil! BBQ / Grill mesh not supplied. The stove can be very easily adapted for indoor use by a qualified person. The standard flue outlet is at the rear of the top surface of the stove. If the intention is to use the stove as a heater only I recommend considering the flue outlet be positioned at the center, of the top surface of the stove. Not essential by any means, but can give added stability to the installation in some situations if using a heavy vertical flue. If a center flue outlet is required please specify when ordering or sale agreed. The negatives: - The stove needs to be dismantled to clear the ash or to gain access to clean the oil burner, as they are enclosed. A two minute job to dismantle and reassemble, so not a show stopper. It can run for several days, burning wood before needing to empty the ash. - There is no automatic oil shutoff in the event of oil overflow. So be careful of that. For this reason alone you need to think very carefully before leaving the stove burning oil unattended. Operating in a greenhouse for e.g., should not pose a problem unattended, if using a stabilized low temperature burn. - She's quiet ugly and will never win any prize at a beauty pageant, no matter how much you dress her up. However she does what is asked of her. She works, is honest and she does everything it says on the tin. - Bit noisy at times, especially if the moisture content is high in the oil you are burning. A 2 meter flexible exhaust pipe can be obtained easily, sturdy and consequently heavier, or any lightweight 3 in dia exhaust tube will do. It is a narrow flue but do you want all the heat to go up through the flue? * Basic stove weight, inc. oil burner insert, levers, spacers and flue stub: Approx. 8 kgs. Without oil burner insert 4 kgs * Temperature info. With a stove pipe temperature gauge placed 6 inches up from the stove top, a reading of 350 deg F. "12 o'clock". This gives a corresponding reading of 600 + deg F. with the stove pipe temperature gauge placed in the middle of the stove top. This is obtained using a 2 meter flue. Stowed: (Approximately). 30 cm dia. x 29.5 H. Can easily be carried. The stove, oil burning insert, all other parts listed above apart from the poker, can be stowed within the defined dimensions. Alternatively a short stow able flue can be placed within the stowed confines, dispensing with the oil burner insert. There are 3 points in the top half of the stove where the oil feed pipe can be inserted. Left, right and rear. The stove is not sealed, as it is reliant on draft "pulling" the exhaust up via the Flue. As I mentioned above, I have applied the K.I.S. in construction by using easily obtainable prefabricated items. This obviously keeps costs down. You will find small holes in the three main components, these holes were originally used for fitting handles and do not degrade the efficiency of the stove. My third prototype, the first two being very experimental, has been operational for six years. Of course, I have had to replace a few items as they wore out. Everything wears out in time, if not by use----by natural corrosion. If a component does need replacing, a quick trip to the local home utensils outlet, should sort out the problem. In summing up, the stove is very functional, I have kept the finished article as light and cost effective as possible while strengthening most of the parts that are susceptible to long term heat degradation. Youtube links: (Copy and paste) http://youtu.be/Dq6o-v3H9IU http://youtu.be/y3ISARgon9U http://youtu.be/5HnUMcf8lBo http://youtu.be/Ixt2NIqoN44 http://youtu.be/jP2ST4ewpVo http://youtu.be/IOMwww3UnTk I truly believe this piece of kit to be the most versatile I have seen or heard of, as far as stoves are concerned. Please feel free to correct me, should I be wrong.